Once a fishing village
on the Puna coast of the Big Island, Kalapana is now a barren
land of slowly cooling rock. A few house still stand. The landscape
of this former fishing village was forever changed in 1990
when Royal Garden, the subdivision in the area, was covered
by 33 feet of molten lava. The lava flow, which seemed endless,
continued from April through December and destroyed 180 homes
and everything else in its path as it added 150 acres of land
to the island of Hawai‘i.
A few homes were spared by the flowing lava, by sheer luck, and
they still stand today. These homes are completely surrounded
by lava and cut off from civilization. A few families still live
in the barren subdivision, collecting water in tanks and using
generators or solar for power.
By December of 1990, the surface of the lava river had cooled
and lava was flowing through a tube. The flow dried up by February
as a new tube was formed on the western edge that delivered lava
directly to the sea.
Today, the Kalapana area has become a volcano park with access
available to the public, although fishing on the coast is reserved
for native Hawaiians of the Kalapana area and their guests.
The hike to the coast from the parking area is about two miles
one way, on rocky sharp, glassy lava. It is best to wear long
pants to protect your body from the lava in case you may fall
and shoes or hiking boots with good traction and thick soles.
Bring first aid supplies for treating injuries, in case you fall
onto the lava. Wear sunscreen, hats, and sunglasses, too for
protection from sunburn, because the sunlight can be intense
during the day, and take extra water.
Start the trek through the volcano park early to avoid hottest
time of the day, and pace yourself. The four-mile trek ranges
from low to medium elevation due to the way the lava has formed.
Once you have reached the coast, you can walk down to the Kalapana
Black Sand Beach, formed by the explosion of the lava into grains
of rock when it hits the cold water of the ocean. The temperature
in the water and the whole area will be higher due to the lava
that is still continuously pouring into the ocean.
It is possible to camp overnight at the volcano park. During
the night, you can often see the lava of Kilauea’s puu
o‘o vent glowing as it flows down the cliffs to the sea.
Over-night visitors must register at the ranger station, so they
can be warned if the direction of the lava changes.
Going on a lava hike is a unique experience available in few
places other than the Hawaiian islands. Be fully prepared for
the hike to ensure its success and your own safety.
Kalapana facts and cautions
Visitors are allowed in the park Monday – Friday,
from 10 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. Take Highway 137 around the eastern
coast of Hawai‘i to the very end or take Highway
130 south from Hilo to Highway 137 and continue to the
end. A park ranger’s station and parking area are
located at the end of the road.
Cautions:
·
Stay on the path as directed by the rangers.
·
Wear sturdy shoes.
·
Bring a flashlight if hiking after dark.
·
Bring plenty of water.
·
No restroom facilities are available on the lava field.
·
This is an active volcano, and it is unpredictable.
·
Stay away from any house that is private property.
·
Do not get close to the ocean. The land is unstable and
may suddenly collapse. |
April 23, 1990
Photos courtesy of USGS 
June 6, 1990
Photos courtesy of USGS 
June 13, 1990
Photos courtesy of USGS Walter’s Kalapana Store and Drive Inn
(sign in photo above) was burned and covered by lava in early
June as flows moved relentlessly through the Kalapana area.
During this difficult period, scientists of the USGS Hawaiian
Volcano Observatory provided detailed information on lava movement
to the Hawai‘i County Civil Defense, which made decisions
regarding evacuation, road closures, and safe vantage points
for residents and visitors.
The hike at the Kalapana Volcano Park has different elevation
ranging from low to medium. It is best to watch each step you
take because not all areas are sturdy.
Photos by Susie Lin 
Many of these houses are built on the lava rocks on Kalapana.
People standing at the edge of the coast at the end of the
hike.
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